Saturday, 22 September 2012

Rabidiso to Santa Irene

From Rabidiso we departed just after 7h30, still under the cover of darkness.
We were not in to much of a hurry, although as we get closer to Santiago accommodation seem to become more crowded. We asked the Spanish lady at the aubergh in Rabidiso to call the next 2 places we wanted to stay in and make a booking.
As it turned out some of the messages got lost in translation, and we were supposed to be at the next auberg before 12pm or phone ahead and advise that we will be arriving after midday, so when we arrived there we were told that there was no more rooms left.




Frustrated we took our packs and headed down the road to the public auberg. They did have rooms and we quickly moved into our 16 bunked bedded dormitory. This has already became an established ritual of making beds, and being sure to place a bedbug sheet on the mattress, taking a quick shower, and then washing the dirty laundry of the day.
Also this auberg did not have any perigrino meals so we had to walk back the 1000m to Santa irine to have dinner




It was a mission to sleep, because of heat, masses of people each in its own sleeping bag that makes a noise and the beds that squeak as people turn over, coughing, sniffing, snoring, and sometimes farting. It helps to be prepared with sleep induced by antihistamines, and a good set of earplugs
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Location:Santiago de Compostella

Santa Irene to the outskirts of Santiago of

Today (21/09)will be the last day before we enter Santiago and complete our pilgrimage.
We have already discussed extensively the gear and equipment we brought, and its usefulness to complete the journey. I have already identified 3 items that to this point I did not use or need, namely my sleeping bag, and rain gear with included my rain jacket, and poncho.
So as we were about to leave the Albergue we realised it was raining, or perhaps a more decriptive word would be drizzle. So we had to stop and deploy all the measures we had available to ensure all our equipment stayed dry that included ourselves.This reduced my obsolete item on the journey to my sleeping bag.
This day's walk was very different from the others as we were in urban areas for longer periods of time and could hardly distinguish between the different towns and cities.
We passed around the Santiago airport and at one stage we were right beneath the flight approach route. We had the privilege of experiencing a passenger jet roaring overhead on final approach, aha the marvel of modern flight, in stark contrast to ancient travel on foot.
We found one section "dead" uninspiring and very difficult to navigate, not as one might expect due to difficult terrain , but because it was very boring, uninspiring and hence very difficult to maintain momentum.
Soon we reached "Monte del Gozo"and started heading down hill into Santiago. We passed one of the largest albergues which houses 500 people at the western foot of "Monte del Gozo", and headed across the "autopista" to were we found our albergue "Residencia de Peregrino San Lázaro" into the outlying suburbs of Santiago, which we also booked from Ribadiso 2 days ago. We reached this, our last albergue just after midday, and we were issued beds, ritualed in making beds, washing ourselves and our clothes, and then preceded to have pizza at a local Italian restaurant ....no more pilgrams meals for these two peregrinos.




We passed the rest of the afternoon exploring a small area around our accommodation and prepared in great expectation for entering Santiago's old city early the next morning.
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Location:Santiago de Compostela

Thursday, 20 September 2012

Boente to Ribadiso stroll in the park

The marathon session the other day has contributed to our position being much better than anticipated, and to still reach our objective of arriving in Santiago on Marelize's Birthday on Saturday we had to take it easy, so today we did only 5.3km in total.
Thirty minutes after our late start of 9 am we had coffee and a sandwich break at Castaneda, 30 minutes later we had freshly squeezed orange juice at Manuel's restaurant, and 30 minutes later, just before 12 we strolled over the roman era bridge guarding the entrance to Ribadiso.




We scouted the 2 albergues at the entrance to town, and decided on the slightly more modern looking one, but tonight would be our first true experience of sleeping camino hostel style, as we were given flimsy bunk beds, in a 6 bed dormitory, next to a much larger room that connects directly to the bathroom area.........sharing 2 showers and a staggering 2 toilets with the masses.




We had lunch at the local establishment, literally across the road, had a shower but decided not to wash clothes as we hardly broke a sweat during the the 1.5 hrs of walking here.




After lunch we relaxed on bank of the "Iso" river and were later joined by the local cows.




Boredom and thirst drove us back to the local establishment, were many pilgrims have now gathered to quench their thirst, and take care of the hunger pains.
We enjoyed a peregrino meal with a salad as starter, fish and chips as main course, rounded with peach half for desert.
We decided to retire early, as we realized sleep would be difficult with this many people around, and indeed this was true, as many people were still having a jol outside at 00h34.....
Buen Camino does not necessarily mean you will have a good night Camino ...
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Location:Ribadiso

Wednesday, 19 September 2012

Easy to Boente

After the marathon session yesterday, and the prospect of breakfast, we had a late rise which was essential to allow maximal rest.

Breakfast was a traditional affair again, but it was a self help kind. Soon we were off,back the way we came yesterday, and the kilometer back to the way of St James, a distance we completed in about 20 minutes, on average within our regular time per kilometer but it seemed double quick time compared to when we were tired, yesterday afternoon.

We reached Melide around midday, and stopped for the famous meal of octopus (pulpo) and wine.



After lunch we hit the road again, but it was notably more difficult to get into the zone, probably as a result of the lethargia caused by the big lunch or the wine, possibly both.

We reach Boente just after 14h00, and checked in at a new and modern alberge. After the required shower and fixing our beds, we did some desperately needed laundry, another complication caused by the marathon session the previous day, as we were now both out of clean clothes to wear.

After the necessary chores and spending time watching the cloths dry in the hot spanish afternoon sun, we walked up the hill for a sundowner of the local "vino"



Then down hill again for our pilgrims meal while our half dried clothes got heated up and dried by a tumble drier as the sun drier was now fading into night and ultimately ineffectiveness.



After dinner we were off to bed and sleep did not take long to overwhelm us.

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Location:Carretera Autopista,Ames,Spain

Vilchá to Ligondo... The plan

We woke early with aching sore bodies, shoulders and backs especially after our first days walk and a good night's rest.


We descended the valley in darkness and crossed the river next to Portomarín as day broke
From Portomarín it was another 7.8km to Gonzar which took us about one and a half hours. Here we stopped and enjoyed a traditional breakfast of an omlette on Bread and coffee, and refilled the water bladders which we almost depleted by this time



Soon we were back on the road again, and we both felt really good, we passed Hospital (2.3km), Ventas de Narón (1.4km), Ligonde (3.7km) where we intended to stay... We were really feeling good, minimal discomfort from blisters, and decided to press on, and soon we arrived and "ran" through Palas de Rei (a place we did not want to stay in) and 8.2km futher than our planned overnight spot. We were heading to San Xulían, 3,5km west of Palas de Rei, and still feeling relatively well. This feeling quickly disappeared when we
were told that the auberge was full and suddenly, all pain and tiredness were prominent, but we had no choice but to press on as I did not want to walk back again.



Next target was 2.3km ahead of us, with 3 other pilgrims in visual range, soon they were eating our dust as we were determined to reach the next potential resting place ahead of them.

"COMPLETO" No Spanish required to understand that we were in a predicament, it was now late in the day, and as the last person that received a room at this establishment suggested we should head towards Melide, almost 10km further...at this stage we completed 34 km this day and it was already 17:30.

Our sense of humor disappeared as we had just ran out of water, we were both nursing blisters, various chafed areas ...my most painfull between my legs which I have been ignoring for the last 10Km, cramping aching leg muscles, we were tired in desperate need of rest, running water for cleaning and drinking, and of course licking our wounds... Our refuges came a kilometer or so futher, off the Way of St James, on our own Via Dolorosa in the form of Albergue A Bolboreta. Exhausted, in pain, thirsty, and of course starving, but happy to have finished a great day.

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Location:Arzúa,Spain

Sunday, 16 September 2012

Santiago to Sarria

Yesterday (15/9) we traveled from Santiago to Sarria our starting point. A comfortable taxi ride of just under 2 hours allowed us plenty of time to explore this town with a population of 13000.












Before departure from Santiago, we had a typical Galician breakfast. Toast, croissant, soft sheep cheese , tomato puree and sweet delicious honey, swallowed down with coffee and orange cake.




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Location:Sarria, spain

Our first days walk

We had an early start from Sarria this morning. We left our hotel, Mar de Plata at 06:15 this morning, it was still dark but a new day was dawning in the east behind us.
Our route covered the back country roads, between farms and homesteads. Just after daybreak we (1hr/4km) reached Barbadelo where we had another european breakfast




Soon after our departure a young man passed us, obviously overhearing us converse in Afrikaans, and started talking to us, in a slightly spanish accented Afrikaans. He is from Uruguay and has been learning Afrikaans and heard the opportunity to practice. With "Buen Camino" we parted and he disappeared over the hill.
We heard about a South African guy that have an "albergue" just before Portomarin. After 6 hrs of walking covering 19 km it was midday and time to chill. It was with great relief that we turned the corner and saw the entrance to Casa Bandeira in the village of Vilchá where we decided to retire for the night.




I had a South African flag draped over my walking stick and as we entered the "albergue " I heard someone shout from inside the house "GORDON SOMEONE IS HERE WITH A SOUTH AFRICAN FLAG" Gordon invited us inside, showed a room, the bathroom and where we can wash our cloths, rest and recuperate for a long walk tomorrow. He also mentioned something of a braai, and Rooibos Tea before bed...

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Location:Casa Bandeira, Vilchá

Last minute depart in 10 min





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Location:Sarria, Spain

Friday, 14 September 2012

All arrive in Lisbon, Portugal

As I write this, we are united again, on the luxury bus liner from Lisbon to Santiago.
Marelize, arrived yesterday (09/13) afternoon on an Emirates Airlines flight, I fetched her at the airport, and we took the Lisbon Underground, back to our hotel, Tryp, in Orient. I surprised her with "Melktertjies" and sparkling wine. The wine was bit of an disappointment, because as it poured into a non-Champaign glass, it was crimson red, and it's taste, well suffice to say after the first mouthful it went down the drain. It's the thought that counts right?
It was still a scorture outside, and we decided to visit the "Vasco da Gama " shopping centre, after which we went looking for a traveling tradition, on recommendation of my friend, Albie de Frey. We went looking for the local brew. We found a nice outside table on the banks of the Tagus river, and after studying the menu, ordered a glass of Super bock each. Mmm, just what the doctor ordered for such a hot afternoon.
Soon after the juices in out glasses dried, we felt the need for some food. Again we followed a trusted tradition, and moved to another restaurant. Sangria was the drink for the sun downer, and we both settled for the prawn rissotto curry, after my first choice, sword fish was not available. A sudden rush of tiredness overwhelmed us both, and we had to get up early this morning, to pack up our room and walk the 400m from the hotel to the bus station
Ending of as we approach the Spanish border @ 14:46 GMT+1
















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Location:Lisbon, Portugal

Road to Santiago...

Friday morning (14/9) called for a very early start to pack up the room and walk the 400m to the bus station at "Oriente grande" and we duly arrived just after 6am, only the find the office doors closed. The friendly rival service next door said they will arrive in about 30 minutes. One hour later at just before 7 a friendly lady with enough English capabilities arrive, receive our tickets, no security check or identification check agains our passports, or credit card, and no assigned seats, at that stage we were supposed to be the only passengers on the bus until the next stop. But we still had another 30 min to wait before departure so our next priority was coffee. I entered the entrails of the underground public transport system looking for a coffee bar. Although there are many I found only one open, ordering Cappucion take away. Take-away coffee is obviously a foreign concept here but an innovative barman provided me with 2 delicious Cappuccinos in plastic Super Bock beer glasses, double stacked to prevent us from burning, and a straw as a teaspoon.








The bus arrived finally with a driver who adamantly refused Marelize's hand luggage and we had to remove all valuables such as cameras, wallets, passports in order for the bag to go in the hold. Not happy but just after 7:30 we left on a 11 hr bus ride to Santiago in Spain. All along the way I was impressed with the effective generation of green energy, with gracious wind turbines to be seen all over well into Spain. We have limited experience of this in South Africa as the only one I know are on the Klipfontein road between Stellenbosch and Malmesbury, and on the road between Darling and Yzerfontein rd on the west coast.








The total distance is about 500 km but took 11 hrs because of the frequent stops to load and offload passengers, change drivers, and stop for lunch. Then one also gets inconsiderate people who speaks at the top of their voices to their fellow travel parties or for hours on their cellphones......Thanks to Steve Jobs & Kie, earphones, and amongst others The Parletones, Michael Buble, the City of Angels sound track, and Mathys Roets, international political events was averted.
The route took us past famous places such as Porto, Valencia ( on the river boardering Spain) and Vigo(photo below)




We eventually arrived in Santiago around 5pm, found our Hotel with the help of a friendly "noa hablo ingles" speaking taxi grandfather .More about our hotel when we arrive back in Santiago next week. First afternoon recognizance revealed a "rugby store" complete with a Springbok Jersey in the window




Dinner was way more than expected for a tapas menu. Tapas in Spain is not quite the small bowls of finger food we in SA expects....








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Location:A1 Norte just before spanish border - Valente

Wednesday, 12 September 2012

Shaky start

When my phone rang at 4 (GMT+1) on the day we were supposed to leave I knew something was wrong. The extent was only revealed once I heard Marelize's voice over my phone. Rain in the Gobi desert... But it never rains in the dessert, you might say? Well it rained enough that the aircraft taking them back to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia's capital city did not even leave from there.
We have been aware that there might be a delay, therefore we have planned 2 days in Lisbon before leaving for Santiago. She will arrive here tomorrow afternoon, one day late...
So at the time of writing this I am at 40000ft over the Sahara Desert. I have attached the photo of the onboard tracking screen. Do you know which African country we are over flying. Do you know the world famous town / city / village is in the area. If you think you know put your suggestion in the comment below




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Location:Over the Sahara

Sunday, 9 September 2012

The French Way

The French Way (Spanish: Camino Francés) is the most popular of the routes of the Way of St. James, the ancient pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. It runs from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port on the French side of the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles on the Spanish side and then another 780km on to Santiago de Compostela through the major cities of Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos and Léon. A typical walk on the Camino Francés takes at least four weeks, allowing for one or two rest days on the way.
Paths from the cities of Tours, Vézelay, and Le Puy-en-Velay meet at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. A fourth French route originates in Arles, in Provence, and crosses the French–Spanish frontier at a different point, between the Pyrenees towns of Somport and Canfranc. This fourth route follows the Aragonese Way and joins the main Way of St. James at Puente la Reina, south of Pamplona, in Navarre, about seven hundred kilometers from Santiago de Compostela.
We do not have 4 weeks in which to complete the route, and therefore decided to do a shortened route. To qualify for the Compestela one needs to complete the last 100km of the route, therefore we are going to start our Comino in the town of Sarria. http://goo.gl/maps/sgudz

Jonkershoek - Two Waterfall's Route, Stellenbosch

We plan to start on the 16th / 17th of September and will be walking for a minimum of 6 hours per day / estimated 20km per day.  Sounds like a lot, but we have done several perpetration walks in the beautiful maintains surrounding Cape Town, and in Citrusdal, and we are both confidant that based on the times and speed walked on these training walks we will have no problems completing the planned distance every day. Map

Winterhoek & Cedarberg Mountains, Citrusdal, Western Cape RSA

Our goal is to reach Santiago on Marelize’s birthday on the 22nd September, attend the midday mass, and receive our Compostable, stamped with the same date.
Next you might ask how the officials will know that you have completed the required distance, and have visited the route as mentioned. Most pilgrims carry a Credential or pilgrim's passport that is stamped at hostels and restaurants along the way. We received ours from the Confraternity of St. James of South Africa, the South African organization supporting pilgrims from South Africa. http://www.csjofsa.za.org/
Beun Comino
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Symbols of the Camino - The Scallop Shell

The scallop shell, often found on the shores in Galicia, has long been the symbol of the Camino de Santiago. Over the centuries the scallop shell has taken on mythical, metaphorical and practical meanings, even if its relevance may actually derive from the desire of pilgrims to take home a souvenir.
Many traditions on the Comino is based on legend and myth,  the same holds true for the presence of the scallop shell as a symbol on the Camino
One of the most fascinating myths about the scallop shell’s association with the Camino, is the mysterious return of  James' body to the Iberian Peninsula, by a ship with no crew, to be buried in what is now Santiago. As James' ship approached land, a wedding was taking place on the shore. The young groom (knight) was on horseback, and on seeing the ship approaching, his horse got spooked, and the horse and rider plunged into the sea. Through miraculous intervention, the horse and rider emerged from the water alive, covered in seashells
The scallop shell also acts as a metaphor. The grooves in the shell, which come together at a single point, represent the various routes pilgrims traveled, eventually arriving at a single destination: the tomb of James in Santiago de Compostela.
The scallop shell served practical purposes for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. The shell was the right size for gathering water to drink or for eating out of as a makeshift bowl. The pilgrim would present himself at churches, castles, abbeys etc., where he could expect to be given as much sustenance as he could pick up with one scoop. Probably he would be given oats, barley, and perhaps beer or wine. Thus even the poorest household could give charity without being overburdened.
Today the shell is only used as a symbol and a more monitory means of charity is employed as pilgrims now pay 5, 00 for sustenance all over the route...
Buen Camino

Monday, 3 September 2012

The Way of St. James

The Way of St. James or St. James' Way is the pilgrimage route to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain, where tradition has it that the remains of the apostle Saint James are buried
 The route to Santiago de Compostela was a Roman trade route, nicknamed the Milky Way by travelers, as it followed the Milky Way to the Atlantic Ocean. According to a common medieval legend, the Milky Way was formed from the dust raised by travelling pilgrims. Compostela itself means "field of stars". Another origin for this popular name is Book IV of the Book of Saint James which relates how the saint appeared in a dream to Charlemagne, urging him to liberate his tomb from the Moors and showing him the direction to follow by the route of the Milky Way. The popular Spanish name for the astronomical Milky Way is El Camino de Santiago
The traditional pilgrimage to the grave of the saint, known as the "Way of St. James", has existed for over a thousand years and has been the most popular pilgrimage for Western European Catholics, and history tells us that the route was highly reaveled during the middle ages.
The earliest records of visits paid to the shrine dedicated to St. James at Santiago de Compostela date from the 8th century, in the time of the Kingdom of Asturias. The pilgrimage to the shrine became the most renowned medieval pilgrimage, and it became customary for those who returned from Compostela to carry back with them a Galician scallop shell as proof of their completion of the journey. This practice was gradually extended to other pilgrimages.
The earliest recorded pilgrims from beyond the Pyrenees visited the shrine in the middle of the 10th century, but it seems that it was not until a century later that large numbers of pilgrims from abroad were regularly journeying there. The earliest records of pilgrims that arrived from England belong to the period between 1092 and 1105. However, by the early 12th century the pilgrimage had become a highly organized affair.
One of the great proponents of the pilgrimage in the 12th century was Calixtus II who started the Compostelan Holy Years. The official guide in those times was the Codex Calixtinus. Published around 1140, the 5th book of the Codex is still considered the definitive source for many modern guidebooks. Four pilgrimage routes listed in the Codex originate in France and converge at Puente la Reina. From there, a well-defined route crosses northern Spain, linking Burgos, Carrión de los Condes, Sahagún, León, Astorga, and Compostela
The pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela was possible because of the protection and freedom provided by the Kingdom of France, where the majority of pilgrims originated. Enterprising French people (including Gascons and other peoples not under the French crown) settled in towns along the pilgrimage routes, where their names appear in the archives. The pilgrims were tended by people like Domingo de la Calzada who was later recognized as a saint himself.
However, the Black Death, the Protestant Reformation and political unrest in 16th-century Europe led to a decline on the Camino. By the 1980s, only a few pilgrims arrived in Santiago annually. Since then however the route has attracted a growing number of modern-day pilgrims from around the globe. The route was declared the first European Cultural Route by the Council of Europe in October 1987; it was also named one of UNESCO's World Heritage Sites
The Way can take one of any number of pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela. Traditionally, as with most pilgrimages, the Way of Saint James began at one's home and ended at the pilgrimage site. However a few of the routes are considered main ones.
To this day, many pilgrims continue from Santiago de Compostela to the Atlantic coast of Galicia, to finish their journeys at Spain's westernmost point, Cape Finisterre. Although Cape Finisterre is not the westernmost point of mainland Europe (Cabo da Roca in Portugal is further west), the fact that the Romans called it Finisterrae (literally the end of the world or Land's End in Latin) indicates that they viewed it as such.
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