We descended the valley in darkness and crossed the river next to Portomarín as day broke
From Portomarín it was another 7.8km to Gonzar which took us about one and a half hours. Here we stopped and enjoyed a traditional breakfast of an omlette on Bread and coffee, and refilled the water bladders which we almost depleted by this time
Soon we were back on the road again, and we both felt really good, we passed Hospital (2.3km), Ventas de Narón (1.4km), Ligonde (3.7km) where we intended to stay... We were really feeling good, minimal discomfort from blisters, and decided to press on, and soon we arrived and "ran" through Palas de Rei (a place we did not want to stay in) and 8.2km futher than our planned overnight spot. We were heading to San Xulían, 3,5km west of Palas de Rei, and still feeling relatively well. This feeling quickly disappeared when we
were told that the auberge was full and suddenly, all pain and tiredness were prominent, but we had no choice but to press on as I did not want to walk back again.
Next target was 2.3km ahead of us, with 3 other pilgrims in visual range, soon they were eating our dust as we were determined to reach the next potential resting place ahead of them.
"COMPLETO" No Spanish required to understand that we were in a predicament, it was now late in the day, and as the last person that received a room at this establishment suggested we should head towards Melide, almost 10km further...at this stage we completed 34 km this day and it was already 17:30.
Our sense of humor disappeared as we had just ran out of water, we were both nursing blisters, various chafed areas ...my most painfull between my legs which I have been ignoring for the last 10Km, cramping aching leg muscles, we were tired in desperate need of rest, running water for cleaning and drinking, and of course licking our wounds... Our refuges came a kilometer or so futher, off the Way of St James, on our own Via Dolorosa in the form of Albergue A Bolboreta. Exhausted, in pain, thirsty, and of course starving, but happy to have finished a great day.
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Location:Arzúa,Spain
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