Arrival at Santiago de Compostela Cathedral

Happy birthday Marelize!
It has finally arrived, this morning we will enter the "old" city of Santiago, where legend has it the remains of apostle James is kept in the cathedral
We were on the outskirts of Santiago and have only about 4km to complete our pilgrimage. All to soon the sun has spread its light over this part of Spain, and we set off in to the city, no more forests and farm roads, and pastures. Now we are on the look out for vehicle traffic, cars, buses, no more farm animals such as sheep, cows and horses that cross our path
Before long we were standing in front of the cathedral, both elated with happiness, at having completed this wonderful journey.








After the required number of photo's we were off to the Peregrino office to receive our " compostela's" as official proof of our completion of our journey. The picture below is were Marelize are questioned by the official before receiving her compastela.




Outside the Pilgrims office




We also toured the Cathedral and attended the 12:00 mass. Since neither of us are Roman Catholic I think a lot of the proceedings has been lost to us, I would defiantly attend a mass in South Africa to have a better understanding of what exactly is happening. Before the mass a person reads out the names of the Countries represented and completed the Camino the day before, and while we were there South Africa was mentioned twice.








After the mass we booked into the hotel, showered and changed into something other than Peregrino clothes and hiking boots, and had lunch in the shadow of the Cathedral Clock and bell towers








Site seeing around the cathedral, created a healthy appetite for celebratory dinner, rounded with sampling of pure hot chocolates


























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Location:Santiago de Compostela

Rabidiso to Santa Irene

From Rabidiso we departed just after 7h30, still under the cover of darkness.
We were not in to much of a hurry, although as we get closer to Santiago accommodation seem to become more crowded. We asked the Spanish lady at the aubergh in Rabidiso to call the next 2 places we wanted to stay in and make a booking.
As it turned out some of the messages got lost in translation, and we were supposed to be at the next auberg before 12pm or phone ahead and advise that we will be arriving after midday, so when we arrived there we were told that there was no more rooms left.




Frustrated we took our packs and headed down the road to the public auberg. They did have rooms and we quickly moved into our 16 bunked bedded dormitory. This has already became an established ritual of making beds, and being sure to place a bedbug sheet on the mattress, taking a quick shower, and then washing the dirty laundry of the day.
Also this auberg did not have any perigrino meals so we had to walk back the 1000m to Santa irine to have dinner




It was a mission to sleep, because of heat, masses of people each in its own sleeping bag that makes a noise and the beds that squeak as people turn over, coughing, sniffing, snoring, and sometimes farting. It helps to be prepared with sleep induced by antihistamines, and a good set of earplugs
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Location:Santiago de Compostella

Santa Irene to the outskirts of Santiago of

Today (21/09)will be the last day before we enter Santiago and complete our pilgrimage.
We have already discussed extensively the gear and equipment we brought, and its usefulness to complete the journey. I have already identified 3 items that to this point I did not use or need, namely my sleeping bag, and rain gear with included my rain jacket, and poncho.
So as we were about to leave the Albergue we realised it was raining, or perhaps a more decriptive word would be drizzle. So we had to stop and deploy all the measures we had available to ensure all our equipment stayed dry that included ourselves.This reduced my obsolete item on the journey to my sleeping bag.
This day's walk was very different from the others as we were in urban areas for longer periods of time and could hardly distinguish between the different towns and cities.
We passed around the Santiago airport and at one stage we were right beneath the flight approach route. We had the privilege of experiencing a passenger jet roaring overhead on final approach, aha the marvel of modern flight, in stark contrast to ancient travel on foot.
We found one section "dead" uninspiring and very difficult to navigate, not as one might expect due to difficult terrain , but because it was very boring, uninspiring and hence very difficult to maintain momentum.
Soon we reached "Monte del Gozo"and started heading down hill into Santiago. We passed one of the largest albergues which houses 500 people at the western foot of "Monte del Gozo", and headed across the "autopista" to were we found our albergue "Residencia de Peregrino San Lázaro" into the outlying suburbs of Santiago, which we also booked from Ribadiso 2 days ago. We reached this, our last albergue just after midday, and we were issued beds, ritualed in making beds, washing ourselves and our clothes, and then preceded to have pizza at a local Italian restaurant ....no more pilgrams meals for these two peregrinos.




We passed the rest of the afternoon exploring a small area around our accommodation and prepared in great expectation for entering Santiago's old city early the next morning.
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Location:Santiago de Compostela

Boente to Ribadiso stroll in the park

The marathon session the other day has contributed to our position being much better than anticipated, and to still reach our objective of arriving in Santiago on Marelize's Birthday on Saturday we had to take it easy, so today we did only 5.3km in total.
Thirty minutes after our late start of 9 am we had coffee and a sandwich break at Castaneda, 30 minutes later we had freshly squeezed orange juice at Manuel's restaurant, and 30 minutes later, just before 12 we strolled over the roman era bridge guarding the entrance to Ribadiso.




We scouted the 2 albergues at the entrance to town, and decided on the slightly more modern looking one, but tonight would be our first true experience of sleeping camino hostel style, as we were given flimsy bunk beds, in a 6 bed dormitory, next to a much larger room that connects directly to the bathroom area.........sharing 2 showers and a staggering 2 toilets with the masses.




We had lunch at the local establishment, literally across the road, had a shower but decided not to wash clothes as we hardly broke a sweat during the the 1.5 hrs of walking here.




After lunch we relaxed on bank of the "Iso" river and were later joined by the local cows.




Boredom and thirst drove us back to the local establishment, were many pilgrims have now gathered to quench their thirst, and take care of the hunger pains.
We enjoyed a peregrino meal with a salad as starter, fish and chips as main course, rounded with peach half for desert.
We decided to retire early, as we realized sleep would be difficult with this many people around, and indeed this was true, as many people were still having a jol outside at 00h34.....
Buen Camino does not necessarily mean you will have a good night Camino ...
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Location:Ribadiso

Easy to Boente

After the marathon session yesterday, and the prospect of breakfast, we had a late rise which was essential to allow maximal rest.

Breakfast was a traditional affair again, but it was a self help kind. Soon we were off,back the way we came yesterday, and the kilometer back to the way of St James, a distance we completed in about 20 minutes, on average within our regular time per kilometer but it seemed double quick time compared to when we were tired, yesterday afternoon.

We reached Melide around midday, and stopped for the famous meal of octopus (pulpo) and wine.



After lunch we hit the road again, but it was notably more difficult to get into the zone, probably as a result of the lethargia caused by the big lunch or the wine, possibly both.

We reach Boente just after 14h00, and checked in at a new and modern alberge. After the required shower and fixing our beds, we did some desperately needed laundry, another complication caused by the marathon session the previous day, as we were now both out of clean clothes to wear.

After the necessary chores and spending time watching the cloths dry in the hot spanish afternoon sun, we walked up the hill for a sundowner of the local "vino"



Then down hill again for our pilgrims meal while our half dried clothes got heated up and dried by a tumble drier as the sun drier was now fading into night and ultimately ineffectiveness.



After dinner we were off to bed and sleep did not take long to overwhelm us.

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Location:Carretera Autopista,Ames,Spain

Vilchá to Ligondo... The plan

We woke early with aching sore bodies, shoulders and backs especially after our first days walk and a good night's rest.


We descended the valley in darkness and crossed the river next to Portomarín as day broke
From Portomarín it was another 7.8km to Gonzar which took us about one and a half hours. Here we stopped and enjoyed a traditional breakfast of an omlette on Bread and coffee, and refilled the water bladders which we almost depleted by this time



Soon we were back on the road again, and we both felt really good, we passed Hospital (2.3km), Ventas de Narón (1.4km), Ligonde (3.7km) where we intended to stay... We were really feeling good, minimal discomfort from blisters, and decided to press on, and soon we arrived and "ran" through Palas de Rei (a place we did not want to stay in) and 8.2km futher than our planned overnight spot. We were heading to San Xulían, 3,5km west of Palas de Rei, and still feeling relatively well. This feeling quickly disappeared when we
were told that the auberge was full and suddenly, all pain and tiredness were prominent, but we had no choice but to press on as I did not want to walk back again.



Next target was 2.3km ahead of us, with 3 other pilgrims in visual range, soon they were eating our dust as we were determined to reach the next potential resting place ahead of them.

"COMPLETO" No Spanish required to understand that we were in a predicament, it was now late in the day, and as the last person that received a room at this establishment suggested we should head towards Melide, almost 10km further...at this stage we completed 34 km this day and it was already 17:30.

Our sense of humor disappeared as we had just ran out of water, we were both nursing blisters, various chafed areas ...my most painfull between my legs which I have been ignoring for the last 10Km, cramping aching leg muscles, we were tired in desperate need of rest, running water for cleaning and drinking, and of course licking our wounds... Our refuges came a kilometer or so futher, off the Way of St James, on our own Via Dolorosa in the form of Albergue A Bolboreta. Exhausted, in pain, thirsty, and of course starving, but happy to have finished a great day.

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Location:Arzúa,Spain

Santiago to Sarria

Yesterday (15/9) we traveled from Santiago to Sarria our starting point. A comfortable taxi ride of just under 2 hours allowed us plenty of time to explore this town with a population of 13000.












Before departure from Santiago, we had a typical Galician breakfast. Toast, croissant, soft sheep cheese , tomato puree and sweet delicious honey, swallowed down with coffee and orange cake.




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Location:Sarria, spain

Our first days walk

We had an early start from Sarria this morning. We left our hotel, Mar de Plata at 06:15 this morning, it was still dark but a new day was dawning in the east behind us.
Our route covered the back country roads, between farms and homesteads. Just after daybreak we (1hr/4km) reached Barbadelo where we had another european breakfast




Soon after our departure a young man passed us, obviously overhearing us converse in Afrikaans, and started talking to us, in a slightly spanish accented Afrikaans. He is from Uruguay and has been learning Afrikaans and heard the opportunity to practice. With "Buen Camino" we parted and he disappeared over the hill.
We heard about a South African guy that have an "albergue" just before Portomarin. After 6 hrs of walking covering 19 km it was midday and time to chill. It was with great relief that we turned the corner and saw the entrance to Casa Bandeira in the village of Vilchá where we decided to retire for the night.




I had a South African flag draped over my walking stick and as we entered the "albergue " I heard someone shout from inside the house "GORDON SOMEONE IS HERE WITH A SOUTH AFRICAN FLAG" Gordon invited us inside, showed a room, the bathroom and where we can wash our cloths, rest and recuperate for a long walk tomorrow. He also mentioned something of a braai, and Rooibos Tea before bed...

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Location:Casa Bandeira, Vilchá

Last minute depart in 10 min

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Location:Sarria, Spain

All arrive in Lisbon, Portugal

As I write this, we are united again, on the luxury bus liner from Lisbon to Santiago.
Marelize, arrived yesterday (09/13) afternoon on an Emirates Airlines flight, I fetched her at the airport, and we took the Lisbon Underground, back to our hotel, Tryp, in Orient. I surprised her with "Melktertjies" and sparkling wine. The wine was bit of an disappointment, because as it poured into a non-Champaign glass, it was crimson red, and it's taste, well suffice to say after the first mouthful it went down the drain. It's the thought that counts right?
It was still a scorture outside, and we decided to visit the "Vasco da Gama " shopping centre, after which we went looking for a traveling tradition, on recommendation of my friend, Albie de Frey. We went looking for the local brew. We found a nice outside table on the banks of the Tagus river, and after studying the menu, ordered a glass of Super bock each. Mmm, just what the doctor ordered for such a hot afternoon.
Soon after the juices in out glasses dried, we felt the need for some food. Again we followed a trusted tradition, and moved to another restaurant. Sangria was the drink for the sun downer, and we both settled for the prawn rissotto curry, after my first choice, sword fish was not available. A sudden rush of tiredness overwhelmed us both, and we had to get up early this morning, to pack up our room and walk the 400m from the hotel to the bus station
Ending of as we approach the Spanish border @ 14:46 GMT+1
















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Location:Lisbon, Portugal

Road to Santiago...

Friday morning (14/9) called for a very early start to pack up the room and walk the 400m to the bus station at "Oriente grande" and we duly arrived just after 6am, only the find the office doors closed. The friendly rival service next door said they will arrive in about 30 minutes. One hour later at just before 7 a friendly lady with enough English capabilities arrive, receive our tickets, no security check or identification check agains our passports, or credit card, and no assigned seats, at that stage we were supposed to be the only passengers on the bus until the next stop. But we still had another 30 min to wait before departure so our next priority was coffee. I entered the entrails of the underground public transport system looking for a coffee bar. Although there are many I found only one open, ordering Cappucion take away. Take-away coffee is obviously a foreign concept here but an innovative barman provided me with 2 delicious Cappuccinos in plastic Super Bock beer glasses, double stacked to prevent us from burning, and a straw as a teaspoon.








The bus arrived finally with a driver who adamantly refused Marelize's hand luggage and we had to remove all valuables such as cameras, wallets, passports in order for the bag to go in the hold. Not happy but just after 7:30 we left on a 11 hr bus ride to Santiago in Spain. All along the way I was impressed with the effective generation of green energy, with gracious wind turbines to be seen all over well into Spain. We have limited experience of this in South Africa as the only one I know are on the Klipfontein road between Stellenbosch and Malmesbury, and on the road between Darling and Yzerfontein rd on the west coast.








The total distance is about 500 km but took 11 hrs because of the frequent stops to load and offload passengers, change drivers, and stop for lunch. Then one also gets inconsiderate people who speaks at the top of their voices to their fellow travel parties or for hours on their cellphones......Thanks to Steve Jobs & Kie, earphones, and amongst others The Parletones, Michael Buble, the City of Angels sound track, and Mathys Roets, international political events was averted.
The route took us past famous places such as Porto, Valencia ( on the river boardering Spain) and Vigo(photo below)




We eventually arrived in Santiago around 5pm, found our Hotel with the help of a friendly "noa hablo ingles" speaking taxi grandfather .More about our hotel when we arrive back in Santiago next week. First afternoon recognizance revealed a "rugby store" complete with a Springbok Jersey in the window




Dinner was way more than expected for a tapas menu. Tapas in Spain is not quite the small bowls of finger food we in SA expects....








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Location:A1 Norte just before spanish border - Valente

Shaky start

When my phone rang at 4 (GMT+1) on the day we were supposed to leave I knew something was wrong. The extent was only revealed once I heard Marelize's voice over my phone. Rain in the Gobi desert... But it never rains in the dessert, you might say? Well it rained enough that the aircraft taking them back to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia's capital city did not even leave from there.
We have been aware that there might be a delay, therefore we have planned 2 days in Lisbon before leaving for Santiago. She will arrive here tomorrow afternoon, one day late...
So at the time of writing this I am at 40000ft over the Sahara Desert. I have attached the photo of the onboard tracking screen. Do you know which African country we are over flying. Do you know the world famous town / city / village is in the area. If you think you know put your suggestion in the comment below




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Location:Over the Sahara

The French Way

The French Way (Spanish: Camino Francés) is the most popular of the routes of the Way of St. James, the ancient pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. It runs from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port on the French side of the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles on the Spanish side and then another 780km on to Santiago de Compostela through the major cities of Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos and Léon. A typical walk on the Camino Francés takes at least four weeks, allowing for one or two rest days on the way.

Paths from the cities of Tours, Vézelay, and Le Puy-en-Velay meet at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. A fourth French route originates in Arles, in Provence, and crosses the French–Spanish frontier at a different point, between the Pyrenees towns of Somport and Canfranc. This fourth route follows the Aragonese Way and joins the main Way of St. James at Puente la Reina, south of Pamplona, in Navarre, about seven hundred kilometers from Santiago de Compostela.

We do not have 4 weeks in which to complete the route, and therefore decided to do a shortened route. To qualify for the Compestela one needs to complete the last 100km of the route, therefore we are going to start our Comino in the town of Sarria. http://goo.gl/maps/sgudz



Jonkershoek - Two Waterfall's Route, Stellenbosch



We plan to start on the 16^th / 17^th of September and will be walking for a minimum of 6 hours per day / estimated 20km per day.  Sounds like a lot, but we have done several perpetration walks in the beautiful maintains surrounding Cape Town, and in Citrusdal, and we are both confidant that based on the times and speed walked on these training walks we will have no problems completing the planned distance every day. Map



Winterhoek & Cedarberg Mountains, Citrusdal, Western Cape RSA



Our goal is to reach Santiago on Marelize’s birthday on the 22^nd September, attend the midday mass, and receive our Compostable, stamped with the same date.

Next you might ask how the officials will know that you have completed the required distance, and have visited the route as mentioned. Most pilgrims carry a Credential or pilgrim's passport that is stamped at hostels and restaurants along the way. We received ours from the Confraternity of St. James of South Africa, the South African organization supporting pilgrims from South Africa. http://www.csjofsa.za.org/

Beun Comino

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_Way